Chai, Toast, and Shillong’s unwritten playlist

Shillong is a city where life often feels like a well-curated playlist. From the cafes in Laitumkhrah to the bustling chaos of Khyndailad, there’s always music in the air—and not just any music. Here, English songs dominate, weaving through the streets like an unofficial anthem.

Walk into any café, and you'll hear everything from Summersalt to Coldplay floating through the air, mixing with the steam from momo and the aroma of jadoh. It's one of those rare Indian cities where Western music isn't just appreciated - it's part of the daily soundtrack.

And when When Chai Met Toast recently performed in this music-loving city, the crowd showed up in numbers, their excitement palpable.

“Shillong feels like home”

“It’s beautiful,” says Achyuth Jaigopal, the band’s guitarist and banjo player. “We always love coming to this part of the country. The crowd here appreciates English music so much—you can hear it everywhere, even in the restaurants.”

His enthusiasm is shared by Palee Francis, who adds, “And let’s not forget the food!” The band has a fondness for Trattoria, a local favourite in Police Bazaar.

“This is one of the best meals I've ever had in my entire life,” declares Ashwin Gopakumar, the band's vocalist, as we settle into our pre-show chat by the lake. He's not being polite - he's going to repeat the restaurant's name at least three more times during our conversation, like someone trying to memorise a particularly delicious dream.

Food and music—two things Shillong excels at. And it’s no wonder the city has a special place in the hearts of musicians like When Chai Met Toast, who feel at home, even though they're far from their Kerala roots. 

The quartet - Ashwin, Achyuth (guitar and banjo), Palee Francis (keyboards), and Pai Sailesh (drums) - are here for Spoken Fest, though this isn't their first rodeo in Shillong. It's their third time, and they've developed the kind of familiarity with the city that makes them comfortable enough to stand around in shirt sleeves despite the December chill.

Of chai, toast, and viral tunes

When Chai Met Toast—a name as quirky as their music. Where does it come from? “It’s simple. Chai represents the Indian element, and Toast brings in the English folk side. That’s it. No big story, just the way it’s evolved over the years,” Achyuth explains, though you get the sense that like many good band names, it's better left slightly mysterious.

Their music follows a similar philosophy - primarily English lyrics that occasionally break into Malayalam, Hindi, or Tamil, like a conversation between old friends who share multiple languages.

Speaking of conversations, their song "Joy of Little Things" recently found new life on Instagram Reels, years after its release. The band seems amused by this digital resurrection. "It's not just about being a musician anymore," Ashwin reflects, "it's about being a creator too." He's leaning on the bridge in a way that suggests he's still thinking about that meal at the restaurant, but his words carry the weight of someone who's watched the music industry transform multiple times.

“Before 2015, there were cassettes and CDs. Before that, gramophones. You have to adjust to the times."

The joy is evident—both in their music and the way it connects with people. People may not know their faces, but they know the songs. And isn’t that the dream?

Across borders

The times have certainly adjusted to them. Their US tour this year revealed an unexpected phenomenon - superfans who followed them to multiple shows, sometimes up to 17 concerts. "They bring their friends along," Palee says with a hint of wonder in his voice. He's a father to a baby boy now, and you can hear it in the way he talks about building community - both at home and on tour.

Pai, whom the others tease for being their "American boy," offers a more analytical take on their international reception. "There's more acceptance towards new music there," he says. "People will enjoy the vibe without knowing who we are, then go home and check out the music."

“It’s similar to the Northeast,” adds Achyuth. “The openness here is unparalleled.”

ALSO READ: Prateek Kuhad: A night of 'Silhouettes' in Guwahati

‘First arranged marriage’

As the conversation veers towards the band’s songwriting process, you get a glimpse of their camaraderie. Do they fight over lyrics or compositions? “It’s been 10 years,” laughs drummer Pai Sailesh. “We’ve crossed that phase of nuclear explosions. Now, it’s more like an arranged marriage.”

“Very much an arranged marriage now,” Ashwin says.

“First arranged marriage,” adds Achyuth, and everyone laughs.

WATCH FULL INTERVIEW HERE: 

A song for Shillong

The band has clearly grown—both as individuals and as a unit. Three of them are married now, and you can hear this evolution in their music - especially in songs like “When We Feel Young,” which Achyuth reveals was inspired by their parents' relationships.

They write differently these days too. Sometimes inspiration strikes in unexpected places - like that time they had three days in Gangtok and turned the experience into songs. “We’ve travelled so much,” says Ashwin. “We’re a touring band through and through. And every trip adds something to our music. Places, people, experiences—they all influence what we write.”

Their upcoming album features a track about a specific place, though Ashwin won’t reveal which one just yet. When asked about a song they'd dedicate to Shillong, they unanimously choose “Yellow Paper Daisies,” and somehow, it fits - both the song and the city share a kind of innocent wonder, a brightness that persists even in winter.

Living the dream

The band's journey reads like an Indian indie music success story. All four members knew each other from Kerala's music circles before formally coming together in 2016. Since then, they've released multiple EPs and albums, toured internationally, and even landed Achyuth on Forbes India's 30 Under 30 list in 2022.

But here in Shillong, none of that seems to matter much. They’re just four friends, laughing over stories of the road, teasing each other about Pai and Ashwin’s receding hairlines, and doting on Isaiah, Palee’s three-year-old son who already has a knack for keeping up with tour life. Between bites of food and playful banter, they soak in the relaxed rhythm of the city that feels uncannily in sync with their music.

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Capture it, remember it

Before their performance at Spoken Fest, the band’s crew handed out disposable film cameras to select members of the audience. The idea? To capture unfiltered, raw emotions—moments that smartphones often miss. It’s a thoughtful gesture, perfectly in line with the band’s ethos of celebrating life’s ‘joy of little things’.

As night falls, the temperature dips and the streets around Ward’s Lake begin to hum with energy. Strings of lights cast a golden glow over the water, where gentle ripples mirror the anticipation of the growing crowd. Families, couples, and groups of friends gather, their chatter mingling with the cool night breeze. The stage waits patiently, a blank canvas ready to come alive.

When Chai Met Toast finally steps on stage, the atmosphere shifts. The first strum of the guitar sends a ripple of excitement through the crowd, a collective inhale of recognition and joy. The band doesn’t just play their music—they invite the audience into their world. Their melodies weave through the crowd like a shared secret, warm and familiar, yet brimming with energy.

Every song feels like a conversation: the audience responds with claps, cheers, and the occasional shout of a lyric. Ashwin’s voice rises and falls like the hills surrounding the city, while Palee’s percussion keeps everyone grounded, each beat anchoring the moment. Achyuth’s guitar soars, filling the gaps like threads of gold, while Pai’s drums set the tempo for swaying shoulders and tapping feet.

By the time the final chords ring out, the crowd is on its feet, applauding loudly, reluctant to let the night end.

The disposable cameras click and whirr in the dark. Someone in the front row is “happy-crying”. Three rows back, a couple slow-dances even though the music has stopped. The band lingers a moment longer, taking in the faces lit by both smiles and stage lights, before bowing in gratitude.

Some performances end with a bow. This one ended with a feeling, a connection.