Shillong's famous 'big momo': A culinary tradition endures

Shillong is a paradise for momo lovers, with a bustling street food scene offering a wide variety of flavours at every corner. However, what truly steals the show is the legendary big momo, or the 'bada momo', as fans affectionately call it. This larger, more flavourful version of the regular momo is made with yeast and ajino moto (popular flavour enhancer), offering a unique taste experience. 

Perfect for those who want to enjoy a big bite of their favourite dish, the 'bada momo' is a must-try for anyone visiting the city. However, very few are aware of the backstory behind the big momo...also known as 'Typho'. This dish was first introduced at Shillong’s own food joint, Norbu, where it has since become a local legend.

Speaking to India Today NE, Tenzin Dolma, owner of Shillong's famous Norbu restaurant near Mawbah, proudly exclaims that the 'big momo' originated in her restaurant.

She states that the outlet is over 40 years old. "It was started by my Uncle. I have taken over the restaurant for the past 6-7 years. The big momo originated in my restaurant. My uncle started this business and this momo is very famous."

Available in almost every corner of the city, momo has attracted the taste buds of every person alike, yet the bada momo which once used to reign over every other street food item gained customers in surplus.

Unending craze for momos

Dolma informs that the unending craze over momos attracts customers in surplus on a daily basis with sales sometimes hitting a high of Rs 2000 for just the big momos. "Many people visit the restaurant especially to eat these momos. There is a lot of craze. Our specialty is Pork momo," Dolma stated further adding, "We don't sell chicken, beef or vegetable momos."

"Everyday the minimum amount of momos that we prepare are 12 or 13, and maximum goes up to 18 pieces. Price of per piece is Rs 110. When my Uncle had begun this business, the momo would have cost like 10 rupees but now it is 110," she informs.

 A traditional name famous amongst lovers of pork, the Norbu restaurant owner exalts that the item has the maximum sale. "We also sell the regular, small momos in pork and chicken varieties, but my restaurant is traditionally famous for the 'big momo'. Pork sells most."

Stating that the dish goes by the name 'bada momo', she says, "Since this restaurant is over 40 years old, I know how the craze has flourished through the years and the idea traveled across the state. The regular chicken momos are very popular but pork momo is rarely available, especially this 'Bada momo'." 

"It is very tasty," Dolma proudly states.  

Waiting to savour delicious spoonfuls of Norbu's famous pork momo, a customer remarks, "It is very tasty. I often come here to get some momos packed for my family."

"It is worth the wait," he gleams.

Outside Norbu's, a group of youngsters make their way across the crowded Jhalupara road. Excitement evident on their faces, the youngsters state that they travel often from Laitumkhrah to Jhalupara just to eat the momos. "These are the best momos in the city. We come here very often after college," she declares. 

Rising health concerns

With health consciousness on the rise, the popularity of bada momos has waned, largely due to the inclusion of ajino moto, the trade name for its original monosodium glutamate (MSG) product...an enhancer high in sodium and linked to potential cardiovascular issues and high blood pressure. In contrast, regular momos have remained a favorite, offering a wholesome alternative with their refined flour covering and delicious fillings. 

As Manju Thapa, the owner of a tiny stall near Shillong's Rhino museum, quickly readies three plates of hot momos siding them with a fiery red chutney, kids gather shyly asking for a plate. "Give us extra chutney," they echo in unison. 

When asked, Thapa says that customers usually enjoy the chutney spicier than usual. "I keep extra chutney which is made only with chillies for such customers."  

The kids meanwhile speak through their mouths full of momos. On being asked, they inform that the big momos are too big and they have never tasted them. "We eat small momo because we get many. Big momo is not tasty," one of them expresses.

Thapa states that she sells momos in three sizes..."The big momo sells for Rs 50, however, I also have a variety in medium size which sells for Rs 5 per piece. Kids usually love the medium ones. As for the regular momos, I sell 5 pieces for Rs 20." 

"The sale of the big momo has gone down as it is expensive and does not sell much. Hence, we prepare them in less numbers. Our momo is for Rs 50, however, this momo is not for the health conscious people as it contains yeast and ajino moto." 

Talk of the town : 'only' Shillong  

The momo has gone global, inspiring creative fusions with diverse cuisines. While people continue to blend momos with everything from chocolate to cheese, showcasing their versatility, Manju Thapa exalts how her chicken momos are the bestsellers.

"The regular momos sell much more than the big ones. The big momo are not popular outside Shillong, however in the city, people of all ages love them and it is quite famous here."

It is true. The popularity of these big momos remains confined to Meghalaya alone, with little or no talk about this delicious delicacy beyond the town. 

The owner of Lady Bird food stall situated in Shillong's Jhalupara, Anju Lama exalts how the once-flourishing craze over the big momos has significantly declined owing to the impact the ingredients pose on one's health. "People have become health conscious. They do not like to consume yeast and ajinomoto because it affects the health, hence we do not use these ingredients."

She explains how the Covid-19 pandemic brought about a revolution choosing health amongst people. Lama adds, "After Coronavirus, people have become health conscious hence we avoid preparing the big momos."

"We don't prepare the big momos as much because there are no customers. People love the popular small momos. These are very common across the city," Lama adds.

Furthermore, with a heads up to the famous Norbu restaurant, she states, "I prepare the big momos only on bulk orders. However, the Norbu restaurant is very popular for the big pork momos." Smiling contentedly, she happily exclaims the present drop in the sale of non-vegetarian items owing to the 'Savan' festival which is celebrated widely by Hindus across the country. 

As the streets outside the Lady Bird food joint comes alive with the voices and laughs of passersby, Anju Lama continues to stuff the dough with good spoonfuls of chicken and vegetable fillings, the delighting aroma of the hot, steamed momos occupying the air around.