Northeast India Festival showcases culture and fashion in Istanbul

A contingent of 54 members from India’s Northeast recently journeyed to Istanbul, Turkey, bringing with them a kaleidoscope of colours, textures, and traditions. This diverse group, comprising designers, models, folk artists, entrepreneurs, and officials, converged on the historic city to showcase the rich cultural heritage of their homeland at the celebrating North East India Festival.

The event, now in its 19th edition, was organised by the North East Institute of Fashion Technology (NEIFT) under the leadership of CEO Vikram Rai Medhi. Supported by the Consulate General of India in Istanbul and co-sponsored by the Department of Tourism, Government of Meghalaya, the festival aimed to promote the North East's tourism, textiles, and handicrafts on an international stage.

As the curtains rose in early September, the audience was treated to a spectacular fusion of traditional craftsmanship and contemporary design. Prominent designers from across the region, including Daniel Syiem and Moryca Marak from Meghalaya, Robert Naorem from Manipur, Bambi Kevichusa from Nagaland, Escape from Mizoram, and Huangpi Gogoi from Assam, presented collections that spoke volumes about their cultural heritage.

Among the standout presentations was ‘The Ryndia Chronicles’ by Daniel Syiem. Syiem’s collection paid homage to the state’s indigenous Ryndia fabric, a material he has worked with for over a decade. Speaking to India Today NE, Syiem explained, “I feel a strong, almost spiritual connection with the fabric and its weavers. Ryndia is more than just a material – it is part of our culture and tradition. It’s 100% organic and carries the stories of the women who make it. I wanted to pay tribute to all of that.”

Syiem’s designs, featuring the natural white colour of the fabric and innovative use of silkworm cocoons, captivated the audience. “I chose to use only the natural white colour of the fabric. To add sustainable elements, I incorporated cocoons from the silkworms into the designs. This added interesting details while staying true to the fabric’s origins. This was something new, and it got an amazing reaction from the audience,” he shared.

The designer's commitment to sustainability resonated with many. “Working with Ryndia has made me passionate about sustainable fashion," Syiem said. “We live in a world full of chemicals and fast fashion. When I first started working with Ryndia, not much was being done to promote or protect this fabric or its weavers. It’s taken years to draw attention to its importance."

Syiem highlighted the importance of the Northeast India Festival, calling it “a great initiative by Vikram Rai Medhi” that offers significant exposure for the region on a global stage. Reflecting on his experiences, he noted that over the years, the region has showcased collections at prestigious international venues, where there has been considerable appreciation and interest—not just in his designs, but especially in the unique fabrics from the Northeast.

Moryca Marak, another designer representing the Garo Hills, brought a different perspective to the runway. “Fashion is a form of expression, creativity, and identity,” she said. To ensure authenticity, Marak researched the origins, functions, and symbolism of Garo clothing, accessories, patterns, colours, and materials.

“It’s important not to cross the line between inspiration and appropriation," she noted. She integrated traditional patterns and techniques with modern fashion trends, aiming to appeal to younger audiences and make traditional fabrics fit contemporary styles.

Marak shared that her collection aimed to emphasise modern silhouettes while preserving traditional fabric. "Our mindset has gradually adapted to modernity, and change is necessary," she said. By blending the traditional Garo attire, Dakmanda, with modern styles, Marak sought to offer a new perspective. "I wanted to showcase how traditional garments can be reimagined to signify feminism while still meeting today’s fashion demands."

The festival wasn't just about fashion. Model Nunui Rualhleng from Mizoram walked the ramp with pride, stating, "Representing Mizoram internationally is a great responsibility. I aimed to showcase our vibrant traditional attire and share the stories behind our cultural heritage."

"I also hoped to convey the warmth and hospitality of the Mizo people, which is a core value of our culture," she added.

Adding a musical touch to the event, singer Adoryllene D Sawian, known as Lily Sawian, performed Khasi songs. "My music complemented the fashion by offering a sonic journey through Meghalaya, enhancing the overall representation of our culture," Sawian noted.

As the festival unfolded, the camaraderie among the Northeast contingent became evident. Syiem reflected on this, saying, "One of the best moments was the bond we formed as a team from the Northeast. Despite the chaos backstage during our back-to-back shows, we all worked together, helping each other. That teamwork made the show a great success."

He added, "Since returning from Istanbul, I’ve received numerous messages and emails from the consulate staff about how the audience is still discussing the show and its impact. For me, it doesn’t matter whether we've touched 10, 15, 20, or even 1,000 people. What matters is that we've made an impression and left a part of our identity in that city and in the hearts of those who experienced it."

The event also featured tourism pavilions, with Meghalaya's Director of Tourism, Cyril VD Diengdoh, in attendance to promote the state's rich offerings. Mijito Vinito, India's Consulate General in Istanbul, emphasised the festival's role in fostering long-term relationships between Indian and Turkish artisans.

As the Istanbul edition came to a close, leaving a lasting impression on the international audience, plans were already underway for the 20th edition, set to take place in New Delhi on December 7-8. This ongoing initiative continues to play a crucial role in bringing the unique cultural and fashion landscape of North East India to the global stage, weaving threads of understanding and appreciation across borders.