Umiam: From scenic escape to traffic nightmare

As travelers approach the pristine landscapes of Shillong, the Umiam Lake which actually translates to "water of tears," paints a poignant contrast. Instead of tears of joy, real tears may flow due to the traffic gridlock that has become an everyday obstruction at the gateway to the serene state.

Joining the dots that lead to Meghalaya’s capital city, the Umiam bridge now stands dotted with a trail of vehicles anticipating a chance to cross the stalemate overpass which is under construction and not even a minute-long journey, only to heave a sigh of relief on a flawlessly traffic-free road on the other end.

In what seems like an eternity, the ongoing retrofitting work of the Umiam Dam which had deteriorated over the years and would have posed grave risks to travelers, has profoundly altered the landscape. Gone are the days when the area bustled with tourists capturing selfies against the backdrop of Umiam Lake, its serene waters mirroring the ever-changing skies.

The renovation and retrofitting work commenced in December 2023, marking the beginning of a long trail of broken promises and uncertain deadlines. Despite the state government's earnest efforts towards retrofitting, the deadlines have continuously shifted over the months: beginning from a four-month deadline to another week's time, to two weeks, a month, then another two months, and now...the end of July. Well, currently the bridge is nearing completion as per statements recorded from the authorities but, only time will tell if this latest timeline will hold.

The disruption has certainly catalysed a swift and decisive response from the state government, with Sanjay Goyal, CMD of Meghalaya Energy Corporation Limited (MeECL), assuring that construction efforts are slated for completion by the end of July. Amid these advancements however, load restrictions will be enforced to ensure safe passage for vehicles crossing the area by adhering to weight limits.

Today, the scene is one of anticipation and occasional frustration as travelers patiently await their turn to traverse the bridge and step on the other side of the chaotic world. Scrolling through her phone, anticipation evident on her face, a passenger sighed as she stated, “This journey has turned out to be tiring as there is nothing to do except wait. I travel to Shillong frequently, sometimes four times a week but this traffic has restricted my work. The other day, I was stuck for almost 2 hours which is unfair.”

As vehicles manoeuvre through the persistent queues, entrepreneurial spirit unfolds along the roadside. Amidst the hustle, local vendors – Kongs and Bahs – have ingeniously converted the area into a bustling micro-business hub. They present a delightful array of pineapples, cucumbers, indigenous berries, the renowned Sohphie fruit, and Sohphlang, all neatly packaged in transparent pouches, served with a dash of lemon, black salt, and a hint of chili powder, promising a refreshing and savory delight to weary travelers navigating the temporary congestion.

Some sit along the roads with a delectable variety of pickles and handcrafted goods, while others take on the journey to approach every vehicle with an offering of ‘chana’ and ‘muri’, trying their best to make a selling. A local vendor laughed as she sprinkled salt over a pack of symmetrically sliced pineapples while other Kongs stood behind her with their respective baskets in hand, as if to offer contemporary support. “We don’t mind the traffic because we are able to sell a lot of items on a daily basis. We start in the morning and by night our baskets empty out. But it is unfortunate as these people have to wait for a long time,” she added.

Along the roadside, some vendors showcase a delectable spread of pickles and handcrafted goods. Meanwhile, others embark on a journey alongside vehicles, offering tantalising snacks like 'chana' and 'muri' in a bid to capture travelers' attention.

Amidst the burgeoning wait and endless traffic, is a remarkable display of patience displayed by the drivers, who, faced with lengthy delays, exhibit a spectrum of reactions ranging from frustrated curses to moments of shared camaraderie over cigarettes and paan with fellow drivers. Along the queues of vehicles stand young men, engaged in lively conversations, laughter punctuating the air as they discuss their destinations.

With every engine revving to life, drivers exchange hopeful glances and rush back to their respective cars, scouring through the queue and calculating if this time they will pass. A driver expressed, “It's not just about waiting in these queues. I used to make at least three trips between Guwahati and Shillong because it was easy and convenient. Drivers are earning less now, but once the situation improves, we'll get back on track.”

As the birds quiet their chirping and return to their humble abodes, and the sun sets, casting hues of pinks and yellows, people continue to endure with resilient patience, hoping only for the completion of the repair work. “It’s okay, even this will pass,” sighed the driver as he started the vehicle, wondering if this time he would actually cross the bridge.